Remote Sump layout

giulianom

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In another thread a long time ago, I started my design for a 150 Gallon acrylic tank... Here for reference: http://atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=57605">http://atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=57605</a>


Nearly 15 months later, and yes, I am still in the design phase. :)

Except I've decided to go a different route - instead of a large sump and all that plumbing gear underneath the tank, I've decided to move all that to a remote sump.

I have a space underneath the stairs that is about 20' away from the tank, which has a usable space of around 3' x 15' (give or take a few feet in length). There are supporting walls on either side, and my entry into the space is a 36" doorway.

This space has the advantage that there is easy access to a water source, and the house's sewer vertical stack is right there too.


So after some measuring and planning, I've come up with this basic layout:

[IMG]http://imgur.com/qP36j"></a>[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/qP36j.png>
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The stands are 4"x4" wood, plus a double layer of 3/4" plywood on top.

They're all 20" deep, to give me a minimum of 16" of maneuvering room inside the closet area.


The sump is the MRC 20"x20"x48" high-flow sump.

The Reeflo Dart pump that I had chosen before for a return won't cut it with about 15' of head, so the chosen pump will probably be a Reeflo Hammerhead hybrid pump. I ran the calculations to be sure.

The MRC MR2-R skimmer is on the stand to the left of the white mock-up of the Hammerhead pump.


The piping consists of 3 x 1.5" drains, and 1 x 2.0" return line, with an Emperor 80W HO UV spliced into the return line.

The water tanks on the left are 30-gallon PVC, since they are at max 20" in diameter. The 55-gallon types were too large at 24" in diameter.


I'm going to be starting to prep the living room for the tank in a few weeks (finally!), so hopefully I'll get this all in gear sooner than later.. :)

Thoughts?
 
grouper therapy;786661 wrote: I would use 2x4 doubled instead of 4x4.

Exactly. If EVEN. Your 4x4 and doubled plywood could hold a 50's buick.
 
JeF4y;786680 wrote: Exactly. If EVEN. Your 4x4 and doubled plywood could hold a 50's buick.

LOL... Ok, 4x4's are definitely overkill.

Anybody know of any 2x4 stand calculator sites that I can use to plug the sump dimensions in and get a layout?
 
So following the ReefCentral design linked above, this is what I came up with for a 2x4-based stand:

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36" tall, 48" wide, and 20" deep.

I plan to add a single layer of 3/4" plywood on top, and possibly one on the top side of the bottom to make it a shelf.


I'm thinking of getting one of those Kreg pocket-screw tools to put it all together, possibly along with wood glue.

I'd rather not have to skin the sides with plywood, since this will just be an open stand for a sump and equipment.


Should I worry about twisting/torsion/racking of the frame?

I could add corner diagonal cross braces in the outside corners if that would help.
 
Hey Giuliano, I built mine with 2x4s and topped it with 3/4 ply using the same general build layout that you're using (from RC). I havent really encountered any concerns regarding torsion, but this bad boy did creak when I was moving it into place.

Really though, you should be fine. If you ever actually build this I could lend a hand if you want an extra pair. Honestly, the stands take minutes to make.
 
Crewdawg1981;786947 wrote: Hey Giuliano, I built mine with 2x4s and topped it with 3/4 ply using the same general build layout that you're using (from RC). I havent really encountered any concerns regarding torsion, but this bad boy did creak when I was moving it into place.

Really though, you should be fine. If you ever actually build this I could lend a hand if you want an extra pair. Honestly, the stands take minutes to make.

Hey Grant - how are those LEDs working out for you?


Building these stands shouldn't be an issue.. I think I'll invest in the Kreg pocket-screw package, and sink a bunch of those screws in the 2x4's mating surfaces.

Worst case, I can always add some corner braces or diagonal braces easily enough.


The biggest problem is getting all of the lumber home in one piece, though I think if I get the store to pre-cut the tops down to 4' chunks I can fit them in my trunk...
 
I think you may be better off to use 3" screws and forgo the pocket screws in this application.

Edit: Shoot me your sketchup file and I will place the screws for you if you like
 
GiulianoM;786958 wrote: Something like deck screws?

Varnish sealer for waterproofing?
deck screws will work great. Spar varnish is excellent or paint is what I would use.

Do not use pressure treated lumber either. I figured you knew that but I thought I would say just in case.
 
grouper therapy;786967 wrote: deck screws will work great. Spar varnish is excellent or paint is what I would use.

Do not use pressure treated lumber either. I figured you knew that but I thought I would say just in case.

I know not to use pressure treated lumber, but wasn't sure why...


Why not? :)
 
I am thinking that I might be able to squeeze in a small utility sink in the corner.

I have about 24" of width on the right side that I can fit things in.


This one shown here has a footprint of 24" wide by 22" deep, so it's a little deeper than I would like.. Might be able to find a smaller wall-mount version.


The black vertical bar behind the sink represents the house's main drain stack into the sewers, which is behind the wall. There's hot and cold water pipes that run overhead, so I can tap into those for water.

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GiulianoM;786953 wrote: Hey Grant - how are those LEDs working out for you?

The biggest problem is getting all of the lumber home in one piece, though I think if I get the store to pre-cut the tops down to 4' chunks I can fit them in my trunk...

The LEDs are working fine. I FINALLY got the drivers delivered (only took em 2 months to ship them). Sooooo.... whenever you get a free weekend ;). haha!

I'm actually going to supplement them with some T5s using some readyfit systems from sunlight supply. The PAR is there, but the spectrum is not.

As for the lumber, I went on a Friday night (at the suggestion of the lumber guy at HD) and had them help me make all the cuts. I already knew exactly what I needed so it didnt take long. Got it home and slapped it together then put some of that epoxy paint on it.
 
I am thinking that I will go with one of these types of sinks, and build the stand for it myself.

http://www.mustee.com/product-lines/laundry-utility-sinks/11.html">http://www.mustee.com/product-lines/laundry-utility-sinks/11.html</a>

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ySGdx.png>
ySGdxl.png
alt="" /></a>


They're about $70 at THD/Lowes, and fiberglass so no chance of rusting.

The sink itself is 20" x 17", with the basin at 15" x 14" x 10" - small enough to fit, but not too small to use.


The 4" PVC main soil drain is right behind the wall, so I'll have to cut into it to splice in a 1.5" drain for the sink.

I'd imagine that I'd need to splice in a 4" sanitary tee - but do they make 4" x 1.5" tees?

Could anybody that knows plumbing offer any advice?
 
Hey G,
Would something like this work...

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=203217865&R=203217865#.UCP0hqNnAxE">http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=203217865&R=203217865#.UCP0hqNnAxE</a>

Then reduce the side down to a 1.5 inch. Seems like a plumping supply might have it cheaper.

Warning -I am not a plumber, and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn last night ; )

While you are sketching up ideas might as well figure out how the frag system will fit in, we all know it is going to happen sooner or later.
 
grouper therapy;786956 wrote: I think you may be better off to use 3" screws and forgo the pocket screws in this application.

Edit: Shoot me your sketchup file and I will place the screws for you if you like

Here it is (attached).

The vertical 2x4's on the inside are not load-bearing, they don't go all the way down - they're just there for screws to go into, and to keep the corners square.
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend>
fieldset>
 
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