Updated: Light Friendly Clear Mesh Screen Cover for Open Top Tanks-Standard/Rimless

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

Hi everyone,
The following is a step by set how-to for making a mesh lid for those of us with open top tanks. I have always liked open top tanks with hanging lights for ease of maintenance and heat dissipation, but of course, the downside is that certain species of fish, wrasses and gobies come to mind, can jump out of the tank because they don't have the safety a canopy provides.

I own a standard AGA 210 gallon (72” x 24” x 24”) with top trim, and a custom 100 gallon rimless (30” x 30” x 24”). 

I have several Hawaiian Flame Wrasses in my 210 gallon, and a wrasse and 12 scissortail gobies in my 100 gallon, and the reason I made my screen cover was for them. I lost a couple scissortails to carpet surfing

These clear mesh tops will work for tanks with top trim and tanks that are rimless. I have a set of instructions for placement on rimless tanks as well, located towards the end of this DIY. I know that a mesh top somewhat defeats the aesthetic purpose of a rimless tank, but whether you place one on your tank depends on what fish you have and how likely they are to jump.

So here is how to do it:

Step 1. Pictures of my 210 and 100 gallon tanks.You can see the carpet surfing potential there.

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http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef25.JPG" alt="" />

Step 2. Gather your materials. For anyone that has installed or replaced screening this is a no-brainer. You can source everything at Lowes Home Depot, or any local hardware store You need the appropriate length of 5/16" screen frame, plastic screen corners, plastic screen corner pieces, .140" screening spline, and spline installation tool. Total materials cost to do my 210, except the clear mesh netting, was about $15

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef3.JPG" alt="" />

You also need to decide what type of netting you will use. I have found that the best type, considering the factors of light blocking and opening size, is a clear ¼” square opening, polypropylene mesh. This is the best choice because it allows light penetration, but the opening is small enough to keep small fish like gobies and small wrasses, in the tank if they jump, and since it is 100% polypropylene, it is reef safe. I had to buy a large roll of the stuff, as it is very hard to find in small quantities.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef4.jpg alt="" />

Step 3. These are the 4 sections of screen channel I cut for each of the openings I made a cover for, and the plastic corner pieces.

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Use the instructions on the plastic corner pieces for proper measurements. I used a hacksaw and a miter box. The pieces are simple butt end cuts. The plastic corner pieces are really handy. I determined total length of the inside lip of each section of the 210, then subtracted 1/8" so each cover would go on and off easily.

Step 4. The corner plastic pieces slide into the channel frame. Nearly idiot proof, as they only go in one way.

http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef6.JPG" alt="" />

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef7.JPG" alt="" />

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef8.jpg alt="" />

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

Picture of the finished frame assembly.
Front:

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Back
http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef10.JPG" alt="" />

Step 5. Pic of the back of the frame. I have 4 Tunze 6105 pumps for circulation, so I used a dremel to edge out an opening on the back of each frame to allow the power cords to pass. You may or may not need to do this depending on your setup. The frame piece is still strong, even after removing that much material.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef11.jpg alt="" />

Step 6. Mesh netting installation with spline. The spline material goes into the channel and holds the clear mesh netting. The spline tool is used to push the spline down into the channel. Start in a corner and work your way around all 4 sides. When you make the covers, just don't stretch the netting too tight as you install the spline, because it can bow the aluminum channel inwards, and make the cover not want to lie flat. You want to keep even tension on the mesh as you push the spline into the channel, but not too much tension.

Example of spline installation without the mesh:

http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef12.JPG" alt="" />

Spline being installed with mesh.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef13.JPG" alt="" />

Completed spline installation.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef14.JPG" alt="" />

Step 7. Trimming the excess screen material away from the frame. I used safety razor blades to trim the excess screen material. You want to work carefully, and cut on the OUTSIDE part of the spline on the side of the channel. This gives you a very clean look. This section is face down, so you don't see it anyways, but a careful trim job here allows the cover to lay down flat on the inner lip of the tank. It just looks better.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef15.JPG" alt="" />

Completed trim job on screen, bottom side.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef16.JPG" alt="" />

Completed mesh screen top, right side up.

[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef17.JPG" alt="" />

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

Step 8. Install on your tank.
 
210 gallon
 
http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef182.JPG" alt="" />
 
Another top on my 60 gallon cube.
 
[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef19.JPG" alt="" />
 
Rimless Instructions.
 
Please follow the regular instructions, except you need to make the mesh top to the outer dimensions of your rimless tank, meaning the total length and width of the tank, including the glass. This is because the mesh top will sit directly on top of the rimless tank.
 
Here is how I have my mesh top sit securely on my rimless tank.
 
Step 1. I cut out two thin pieces of acrylic in the shape of a capital “L”. I then bent each one as you see in the picture below. These were siliconed in place on the back left and right top corners of the left and right glass panel as seen in the picture below. These two pieces hold the mesh top in place when you replace it after feeding or tank maintenance.
 
[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef20.JPG" alt="" />
 
Step 2. I cut two small pieces of acrylic and siliconed them onto the front left and right top corners of the front glass panel. See picture below. You may need to play with size, as these should be cut to fit the hollow underside of the mesh top front corner pieces.
 
[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef21.JPG" alt="" />
 
The plastic corner pieces of the mesh top are hollow on the bottom, and the screen top front left and right corners fit over the small plastic pieces siliconed on the front corners of the front glass, and they serve to keep the mesh top in place as it sits on the tank.
[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef22.JPG" alt="" />
 
Completed top on 100 gallon rimless tank.
 
[IMG]http://www.discusdave.com/images/reef23.JPG" alt="" />
 
I fabricated plastic handles for the screens on my trimmed tanks to make the tops easier to remove because they slip in pretty flush in the glass channels on my 210 and 60 gallon tanks. The rimless does not really need one.
 
That is about it. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to send me a PM via the messaging system here.
 
Best regards,
David

grouper therapy · Oct 5, 2009

Nice job Dave, good pics and instructions:up::up::up:

lilrobb · Oct 5, 2009

Darn nice, Dave!
Thanks for the write-up, saving many members some serious headaches!

What are the little pipe looking on thing on the LR in your cube?
Pre-made frag holders?

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

LilRobb;399605 wrote: Darn nice, Dave!
Thanks for the write-up, saving many members some serious headaches!

What are the little pipe looking on thing on the LR in your cube?
Pre-made frag holders?

Hehe!...they are little lengths of 1/2" clear pvc pipe epoxied onto the rockwork. Plan is to get all my chalices on plugs into these holders and up off the substrate. Chalices held like this grow like a plate and frag easily.

mockery · Oct 5, 2009

Wow Dave funny you should post this. As I just made mine today! Works great thank you so much for such a great write up.

mglenn · Oct 5, 2009

Another option that has worked well for me is to use plastic eggcrate light covers customized to cover the tank with small outlets for tubing, electrical cords, etc. You can buy the white, lightweight, plastic mesh in big sheets where they have the industrial fluorescent light covers in home depot. You can make a template of the tank top and then cut the cover, or just cut as you go. The holes are larger than in the mesh screen; but, for people like me, even easier than making the screen cover. It does stand out more, but the larger holes make it possible to feed and dose through it. I have used one on a nano tank for years and haven't really identified a down side. I have to admit, it doesn't look integrated as much as the screen does.

Just an FYI, especially for the less mechanically inclined (Oh, cleaning it is pretty easy, too. I didn't think about it until just now, but I might be able to run it through the dishwasher, if I needed to.).

mglenn · Oct 5, 2009

Interesting. I have a 12 gallon nano reef tank with scooter blenny, yellow shrimp goby, pistol shrimp and peppermint shrimp. I haven't encountered the problems you described.

I've included some pictures. I didn't realize I was limiting my tank so much.
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mglenn · Oct 5, 2009

FYI - I use a clamp-on metal halide. If I were to put together a low light tank I would probably just leave the top on (since the nano-cube deluxe came with compact fluorescent bulbs).

mglenn · Oct 5, 2009

Hmm. I guess bright orange is in the brown category? What about the purple at the top of the tank? I guess I am just not going to be won over. From a purely mathematical point, there is a lot more obstruction of the light when you have lots of little holes as opposed to fewer large ones. It just doesn't make sense to me that you would get more light with screen than the egg crate. One of the bigger advantages of the smaller mesh might be that it absorbs some light energy and keeps the tank a little cooler. That is one problem I have encountered, since the egg crate is almost like having an open top.

PS.- I did have a clam that did great, it expired due to the death of a sea hare (at least that was what we thought at the time). At the same time that we lost the sea harel we also lost two fish. But until that event (maybe I will call it the bunny flu - in honor of our current disease du jour), he was as happy as a ...clam. (Sorry, there was no where else to go).

weaglereefer · Oct 5, 2009

mglenn;403475 wrote: Hmm. I guess bright orange is in the brown category? What about the purple at the top of the tank? I guess I am just not going to be won over. From a purely mathematical point, there is a lot more obstruction of the light when you have lots of little holes as opposed to fewer large ones. It just doesn't make sense to me that you would get more light with screen than the egg crate. One of the bigger advantages of the smaller mesh might be that it absorbs some light energy and keeps the tank a little cooler. That is one problem I have encountered, since the egg crate is almost like having an open top.

PS.- I did have a clam that did great, it expired due to the death of a sea hare (at least that was what we thought at the time). At the same time that we lost the sea harel we also lost two fish. But until that event (maybe I will call it the bunny flu - in honor of our current disease du jour), he was as happy as a ...clam. (Sorry, there was no where else to go).

You had a sea hare in a 12g?

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

Having a clear mesh top is good when you start getting into colors like these:

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But what happens with egg crate diffuser is that it doesn't necessarily cut down on the light going straight down thru it, but drastically cuts down on any light going at an angle to it, especially since it is 3/8 of an inch thick. That is what light diffuser is supposed to do when it is under lights in an office building, for example.

That is where the great loss of light occurs in using it for a top cover. Mesh is probably 1/64" thick, so it cuts down on on any angled light loss compared to eggcrate, and it is clear, so it even lets some light thru.

But use what you like.
Dave

mglenn · Oct 5, 2009

I have colors like those.

justindville1987 · Oct 5, 2009

That's interesting Dave, where did you get the covers from?

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

elekamit;404688 wrote: When using 1/4 inch netting, do I need to double the mesh for firefish?

I don't believe you do. I have 2 helfrichis, and I am using one layer. But whtever you need for your own comfort level.
Dave

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

justindville1987;404690 wrote: That's interesting Dave, where did you get the covers from?

I made them.
Dave

acroholic · Oct 5, 2009

mikeynashy;470109 wrote: I love yer tank!!

Thanks!

bdesper311 · Oct 5, 2009

I just wanted to say thank you for the idea and directions. I just made mine for a 39 gallon rimless tank and it looks great and now I can the bluespot jawfish I have been wanting! Great DIY!!!

smoothie · Oct 5, 2009

Going to be calling on you for a 6x2 screen

Updated: Light Friendly Clear Mesh Screen Cover for Open Top Tanks-Standard/Rimless

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