Whats the best way to reduce phosphates?

90gallon4me · Sep 20, 2011

Ive been fighting a red algae problem for a while. I clean the tank and spots of it slowly re-appear. When i test my water the Phosphates are high but low nitrate. Im guessing the red algae is feeding on my light and phosphate. I have also tried using a phosphate filter pad to remove it and that doesnt seem to work. I would like to stay away from medication because i had a bad experience with that. suggestions on what to do/use.

purplegorilla · Sep 20, 2011

I use 2 little fishies Phosban reactor with a small pump inside my sump. The media I use is from bulkreefsupply, ferric oxide.

ruadh · Sep 20, 2011

I just do water changes...no fancy stuff for me.

hnguyen · Sep 20, 2011

Big wc and skim wet.

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jeffmuse · Sep 20, 2011

I would suggest setting up a GFO reactor... I run one all the time on my tank, and I have seen a tremendous reduction in problem algae. THere are two things that I love about GFO

1) A GFO reactor is pretty cheap (which is rare in this hobby). You can get a great reactor off of bulk reef supply for around $40.00

2) GFO lasts a while - I check my phosphate levels, and I can usually use my GFO media for around 2-3 months before I need to change it out.

lilrobb · Sep 20, 2011

Lanthanum Chloride!
I just ordered a gallon - supposedly easier than GFO and a whole lot more effective...

gregoryleonard · Sep 20, 2011

LilRobb;688843 wrote: Lanthanum Chloride!
I just ordered a gallon - supposedly easier than GFO and a whole lot more effective...

Rob, where can you get it? Do you dose it like Ak or Ca? Side effects? How long does it last? Is it less expensive than GFO?

lilrobb · Sep 20, 2011

gregoryleonard;688849 wrote: Rob, where can you get it? Do you dose it like Ak or Ca? Side effects? How long does it last? Is it less expensive than GFO?

It requires a massive skimmer, as it basically works as a flocculent for phosphates. Extrememly potent, one quart will remove 6000ppb of orthophosphates in 10000gallons of water.

In terms of aquariums:
One quart will reduce 600ppm in 100gallons of water.

You do the math for other variances...

codsack · Sep 20, 2011

LilRobb;688843 wrote: Lanthanum Chloride!
I just ordered a gallon - supposedly easier than GFO and a whole lot more effective...

Robb keep me posted on this, I've read up on it but I didn't want to be the guinea pig.

lilrobb · Sep 20, 2011

I'll be the guinea pig, mine are off the chart (literally) and I can't pinpoint a cause...

smallblock · Sep 20, 2011

Robb do you plan on making a thread about this?

lilrobb · Sep 20, 2011

I'll take notes as I do this - if it horribly fails you will know by "WTB Softies" threads...
If it works - I will post the success story, haha

mockery · Sep 20, 2011

Robb it is also bet to drip into a filter sock that way you capture all of the flocculent. But knowing you your probably on top of your research.

jennm · Sep 20, 2011

Phosguard by Seachem is safe and effective. We use and recommend it. Not as "touchy" as GFO. In a bag in the sump or in a reactor.

Jenn

umbrellacorp · Sep 20, 2011

phosguard worked great for me.

ralph atl · Sep 20, 2011

You must export the same or more nutrients than you put in. Overfeeding, tap water, high phosphate foods, etc. 
 
Water changes will do little for phosphate reduction as phates bind and get absorbed in rock, sand, algae, etc. 
 
If you choose GFO, you’ll need to start VERY SLOWLY! Use 25% of the recommended media, slowly increasing every week. You need to acclimate your tank inhabitants over at least a 2 month period especially is you have any stony corals. Once acclimated you’ll need to change your Iron based media in the phosphate reactor more often. Your media will get saturated within 2 weeks or so depending upon how much is bound up in your rocks, tank, algae, etc. Use less media, change every 2 weeks. Use a great test kit like DD Merck, Hack, or colormeter or even Elos. If you already have a fuge & reactor, be aggressive & change the media every 2 weeks.
 
I use a dual reactor from BRS with GFO & Carbon. I change about every 10-14 days. 
 
When you do your water change, take the end of the hose and suck all the algae down like a vacuum. It'll take a few water changes, but it works (especially after the phosphate remover kicks in)
 
Use a phosphate reactor with some GFO, and something to lower nitrates like a fuge, Vodka, VSV, Solid Vodka Pellets (bio-pellets) or other carbon source. 
 
 
check out:
 
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php</a>
 
[IMG]http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php</a>
 
[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2003/chem.htm">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2003/chem.htm</a>
 
 
[IMG]http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php</a>
 
[IMG]http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/eb/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/eb/index.php</a>
 
[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm</a>
 
[IMG]http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1349443">http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1349443</a>
 
 
[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm</a>
 
 
 
VSV:
[IMG]http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...nftt/index.php</a>

[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1225324">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1225324</a>
 
 
[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22849&highlight=vodka">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forum...ighlight=vodka</a>

jef4y · Sep 20, 2011

Ralph hit the nail on the head...

The BEST way to reduce phosphates is not in export, but in reducing them from going into the tank in the first place. That means quality RO/DI at 0ppm for water changes & top offs. Rinsing frozen food before feeding. Properly sized feedings, and then on to the consumption/removal methods.

Many phosphate problems can be reduced or removed entirely on the introduction side.

cr500_af · Sep 20, 2011

My best results came from stopping commercial frozen foods (even rinsed) and making my own. I rinsed the thawed store-bought food then put it in RO again (so I was able to test it) and the phosphate readings were still around 50 after sitting in RO for a couple of minutes. My food was less than my kit will read in the same water I thawed in.

90gallon4me · Sep 20, 2011

I Ordered GFO pellets from BRS.. My phosphates are at 1.0 so i hope this helps. I use r/o water. Do my monthly water changes and try not to over feed and i also turn off the flow to the tank when i feed so uneaten food does not end up in the sump. 6 years in this hobby and i have never had to deal with red algae like this. My tank looks great but i have to use a tooth brush on my rock once a week to keep the algae off everything.

grouper therapy · Sep 20, 2011

90GALLON4ME;689140 wrote: I Ordered GFO pellets from BRS.. My phosphates are at 1.0 so i hope this helps. I use r/o water. Do my monthly water changes and try not to over feed and i also turn off the flow to the tank when i feed so uneaten food does not end up in the sump. 6 years in this hobby and i have never had to deal with red algae like this. My tank looks great but i have to use a tooth brush on my rock once a week to keep the algae off everything.

Red algae or red slime( cyano bacteria)?

Whats the best way to reduce phosphates?

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