Fun with the PAR meter - T5, Metal Halide and PC numbers
- Thread starter sammy33
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<ul>
<li>150w HQI Sundial w/ 2x32w dual actinic PC (214w total).</li>
<li>150w HQI lamp is 14,000K Ushio.</li>
<li>Electronic ballast and all bulbs are less than 3 months old.</li>
</ul>
All readings are from the center section (under the 150hqi) except the 12" reading which is from the side of the tank. The pendant is about 4" above the water with the distance shown being from the surface. Add 4" to the dimensions above for the actual distance from the light.
its jsut a great idea to do that so people can get a ref of what a certain bulb/ballast setup will do for their tank.....granted there are all kinds of parms that will effect the PAR but you'll get a basic idea, tankfully its taken sammy to get this going.
<ul>
<li>18w stock NO Flourescent strip light</li>
<li>18w lamp is an AGA brand "aquarium lamp"</li>
<li>Bulb and ballast are over a year old</li>
</ul>
I guess this is enough light for these Java Ferns? Maybe I should change the bulb. :unsure:
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I pm'd sammy... I am in lawrenceville and would love to have my tank tested!
<ul>
<li>30g Oceanic Cube</li>
<li>2x36w PC Retrofit, reflectors, WH5 ballast (72w total)</li>
<li>one 36w 50/50 (10K and actinic) lamp and one 36w 6700K lamp</li>
<li>Bulbs and ballast are over one year old</li>
</ul>
Note that this is also about what a 24g Nano Cube has for lighting. So this would be respectable performance for some of the less demanding corals and does well for these plants.
Chicagoman and maybe Brandon are next. I also personally have at least 3-4 other aquariums I can test so this will be a good foundation of data to build on. I will keep posting new numbers as I collect them. :fish:
Good question. I have read http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1">some articles</a> proposing that clams need around 600 PAR to begin reaching saturation. Photo-inhibition was not seen at PAR ratings up to 1,900! That's a lot of light...greedy clams. :confused2:
With that said mine have been under about 295 PAR. This would seem to be a bit less than they are used to. I do know that most corals and clams seem to be able to adapt to less light. I also feed phyto, rotifers, oyster eggs, etc. as an alternate energy supply.
I would say that a good range for clams is 300 to 600 PAR is safe.
I'd like to see the PAR readings from divers noting actual PAR for various kinds coral and clam species commonly found in the home at their natural depths.
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i second that.
Nice. I really want to see what my PAR levels will be in my 24g nano cube with the 250w Sunpod.
I am actually pretty impressed with the Sunpod fixtures. The color on the stock 14K lamp is not badk and they seem to produce a good amount of light. The 70 and 150 use electronic ballast and the 250 uses an HQI (magnetic). The electronic ballasts are generally more "gentle" while the HQI ballasts tend to push the lamps harder.
You should have great PAR on your system I would guess it approaches 1100 to 1200 at the surface?
You should have great PAR on your system I would guess it approaches 1100 to 1200 at the surface?
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could you maybe do a 70 watt halide?
Tonias 150g reef (48x24x30) with 2x400w SE Lumenarc reflectors. Radium 20,000K lamps and IceCap electronic ballasts are less than 3 months old. Bulbs 12" above water.
Great performance on a 30" deep tank with this setup. The color on this reef is a nice underwater blue. Looks like you are underwater. :shades:
Those 400w halide kick butt. That's some serious light penetration. I need a 400w over my nano.
