skinning a 2x4 stand

[grouper therapy]

NHannon8;892003 wrote: Grouper, the softer wood is always the least dense and therefore the least stable material. <span style="color: Red">Not accurate</span>, <span style="color: Red">Mahogany being one of the first to come to mind Oak and Walnut are actually very porous so much so that a filler is needed for both when doing highend finishing </span>. The ability for the fastener to work is dependent on how much surface area is in contact with the fastener, whether it be a screw or nail, and the more dense the more contact.<span style="color: Red"> Spot on</span> The head of the fastener, screw or nail, will hold the less stable material more effectively than the pointed end. <span style="color: Red">Agreed that would hold true for any material</span> I have seen plywood pull off of a nail or screw that is driven the opposite way through the 2x4 in less than a week. <span style="color: Red">Incorrectly done I agree or in extreme moist or unstable conditions</span> After going back and correctly fastening it, it has gone years without moving. I know this probably doesn't explain your questions completely, but it is one of those things that is passed down from Master Carpenter to Apprentice for as long as finished carpentry has been around. I can't count the number of times my Master Carpenter drilled this into my head while I apprenticed for 5 years with him.

I haven't been privileged to apprentice with a Master carpenter as you have so I will have to go on my limited experience as wood butcher but I would bet my tool belt that the plywood is far more stable and harder than the SPF 2x4 that it is being screwed to. Unless of course it is standing in water. I did not see the need to worry about stability in this application as it should stay relatively dry. More cocerned with aesthetics than function but since the trim will cover no big deal.

To the op. For future reference look for a birch or cabinet grade plywood as the moisture content is more closely monitored during production which usually results in a flatter sheet. Always ask for domestic made plywood as well.

Edit:

JDavid;892005 wrote: Plus, it seems a hell of a lot easier to do

I'm sure it is, of course cinder blocks are as well.

 

[nhannon8]

Grouper, guess we will have to agree to disagree. I was just trying to offer my 20+ years carpentry experience to help with the OP build. I don't know much about saltwater reef tanks, but I made my living for many years working with wood. Just trying to help.

 

[jdavid]

grouper therapy;892007 wrote: I will have to go on my limited experience as wood butcher

lol we all know you build top notch stands.

grouper therapy;892007 wrote: To the op. For future reference look for a birch or cabinet grade plywood as the moisture content is more closely monitored during production which usually results in a flatter sheet. Always ask for domestic made plywood as well.

See I was fine with oak but the guy literally talked me out of it. He made me feel stupid for spending the extra $, definitely not there to sell the wood. I was going to buy the oak. He did say that this is a cabinet grade board.
The 2x4's are home depots special load bearing kiln dried whatever 2x4's.

He did say it was from some other country and that is why it is cheap (but still high quality)

either way, once they make the first cut, it's yours.

it's not warped too badly. but it is warped. I didn't notice in the store.

I'm not sure what to do now as far as tp screw from the inside or outside. If it's simply to hide the screws, The trim will do that. If theres another reason, I don't understand.. I do know that my next move is to pick up some 2" screws. I might just cut the door out after I screw on the front, considering I don't have a table/bench to work on.

what to do what to do..

Edit: Also

JDavid;891989 wrote:

I am going to paint it. I was actually just thinking about that, should I go ahead and put a coat on the 2x4 frame before I skin it? Just in case water gets in there and causes problems (maybe mold?)

Then, by that logic, I would need to go ahead and paint the inside face of the ply as well. Not a finishing coat, just something to prevent water damage. Good idea?

 

[grouper therapy]

JDavid;892015 wrote: lol we all know you build top notch stands.
See I was fine with oak but the guy literally talked me out of it. He made me feel stupid for spending the extra $, definitely not there to sell the wood. I was going to buy the oak. He did say that this is a cabinet grade board.
The 2x4's are home depots special load bearing kiln dried whatever 2x4's.

He did say it was from some other country and that is why it is cheap (but still high quality)

either way, once they make the first cut, it's yours.

it's not warped too badly. but it is warped. I didn't notice in the store.

I'm not sure what to do now as far as tp screw from the inside or outside. If it's simply to hide the screws, The trim will do that. If theres another reason, I don't understand.. I do know that my next move is to pick up some 2" screws. I might just cut the door out after I screw on the front, considering I don't have a table/bench to work on.

what to do what to do..

Edit: Also

If the trim will hide it then put them in from the front.

Edit:

NHannon8;892011 wrote: Grouper, guess we will have to agree to disagree. I was just trying to offer my 20+ years carpentry experience to help with the OP build. I don't know much about saltwater reef tanks, but I made my living for many years working with wood. Just trying to help.

No worries here my friend. I like to discuss different takes on procedures. I never worked with a master carpenter but would have loved the opportunity. I had to teach myself the basics back in the late 70s and early 80s. I moved to Atlanta in 1984 and taught myself how to build curved and spiral stairs, interior trim for a short while and moved into a few cabinets in the last few years. Been paying the bills that way ever since.

 

[jdavid]

grouper therapy;892018 wrote: If the trim will hide it then put them in from the front.

Okay.

Well I'm gonna pick up a can of http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-White-Primer-Ultra-Cover-2x/22796127">Rustoleum primer spray paint</a> and paint the frame and the inside face of the ply tomorrow. If they need a coat of something else I need to know because that is all I plan on doing to the frame/inside. Also is spray paint OK for the primer/finishing coats of the exterior or should I use a brush? Any specific paint/finish that I need to use?

I was thinking about maybe putting some of that new "never wet" stuff on the stand when it is done. I haven't looked into it, but the commercial is B.A.

 

[camellia]

No worries here my friend. I like to discuss different takes on procedures. I never worked with a master carpenter but would have loved the opportunity. I had to teach myself the basics back in the late 70s and early 80s. I moved to Atlanta in 1984 and taught myself how to build curved and spiral stairs. Been paying the bills that way for almost....

As long as Camellia is old,

 

[nhannon8]

grouper therapy;892018 wrote: If the trim will hide it then put them in from the front.

Edit:
No worries here my friend. I like to discuss different takes on procedures. I never worked with a master carpenter but would have loved the opportunity. I had to teach myself the basics back in the late 70s and early 80s. I moved to Atlanta in 1984 and taught myself how to build curved and spiral stairs, interior trim for a short while and moved into a few cabinets in the last few years. Been paying the bills that way ever since.

I have never had the opportunity to build a spiral staircase. Not really something that was used up north. I can only imagine the complex work that is involved in building and installing one of those. A regular staircase can be a challenge sometimes as it is.

I also enjoy a lively debate. It's fun to discuss different approaches to things. One thing I have learned in the few years I have been down south, things are done a lot differently south of the Mason Dixon line. Lol

On the paint question, you will find spray paint overspray will get everywhere. I prefer to brush, one reason I think you get a thicker, more even coat, plus I think it is less messy. But I have been know to fog up the shop on one or two occasions spraying things myself. That really is a matter of personal preference.

 

[jdavid]

NHannon8;892023 wrote: I have never had the opportunity to build a spiral staircase. Not really something that was used up north. I can only imagine the complex work that is involved in building and installing one of those. A regular staircase can be a challenge sometimes as it is.

I also enjoy a lively debate. It's fun to discuss different approaches to things. One thing I have learned in the few years I have been down south, things are done a lot differently south of the Mason Dixon line. Lol

On the paint question, you will find spray paint overspray will get everywhere. I prefer to brush, one reason I think you get a thicker, more even coat, plus I think it is less messy. But I have been know to fog up the shop on one or two occasions spraying things myself. That really is a matter of personal preference.

Yeah my brother painted half the stuff in the garage (and the floor) black when he did the back of his 120g.

 

[grouper therapy]

NHannon8;892023 wrote: I have never had the opportunity to build a spiral staircase. Not really something that was used up north. I can only imagine the complex work that is involved in building and installing one of those. A regular staircase can be a challenge sometimes as it is.

I also enjoy a lively debate. It's fun to discuss different approaches to things. One thing I have learned in the few years I have been down south, things are done a lot differently south of the Mason Dixon line. Lol

On the paint question, you will find spray paint overspray will get everywhere. I prefer to brush, one reason I think you get a thicker, more even coat, plus I think it is less messy. But I have been know to fog up the shop on one or two occasions spraying things myself. That really is a matter of personal preference.

The architecture here definitely created a high demand for curved stairs not so much for spirals. Oddly enough over the last 25 years the majority of the super complex and expensive stairs I built were in the northern states (Michigan. Indiana. Illinois Ohio, Wisconsin, New york especially Long Island, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Maine) and even stranger than that, way west and south in Hawaii of all places. Tough job there but someone had to do it.:yes: I will say that most of the tradesmen there were union and were extremely nice to work with. We shared lots of ideas after thet got past my southern drawwwwww.

 

[jdavid]

grouper therapy;892007 wrote:
I'm sure it is, of course cinder blocks are as well.

While searching for examples/ideas on how to do the trim and molding on my stand, what I thought was a joke became reality.

 

[jdavid]

Since I have no idea what I'm doing, I'm still trying to get an idea of how I am going to go about the trim molding. I am learning what some stuff is called, at least.

Around the bottom edge I guess I will first go around with a board, 1x6 or 1x4 or something of that nature. Then on the top edge of that will be base cap and around the bottom I will put quarter round.
As shown in this friendly tutorial for DIY Dummies here:

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I would like to bring the corners out like it shows in the example but I fear that might get over complicated in the crown

Up the sides I guess I will do fluted casing and rosette corner blocks. This is not how I imagined doing this. It seems like there would be one solid outside corner piece suitable for this type of application. example shown here:

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I haven't figured out what I want to do with the crown moulding yet, but you can begin to see the style I have in mind. Of course, I'm super flexible and open to ideas. Still in the thinking stages for this, as I have yet to begin the doing stages with the ply.

 

[porpoiseaquatics]

You can buy a baseboard with that profile at the top already. I have it in my master bedroom. Bought it at Lowe's but there you have to purchase full sticks. Go to Home Depot and they sell it by the foot. Everything you have selected is "on the shelf".

 

[rdnelson]

porpoiseaquatics;892367 wrote: You can buy a baseboard with that profile at the top already. I have it in my master bedroom. Bought it at Lowe's but there you have to purchase full sticks. Go to Home Depot and they sell it by the foot. Everything you have selected is "on the shelf".

Yup. When I got my tank the stand and canopy were very basic and I wanted to dress it up a bit. Went to HD and for a few bucks and about two hours time it totally changed the look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -

 

[jdavid]

A few bucks? Lol. I just dropped another $30 in HD today on (2) 1x4x96 finger joint pine and (1) 1x6 fj pine.

I'm going to total it out soon (just what's in the stand, not drill
Bits etc)

Anyway the cuts the guy gave me were clean, but.. Terrible. They actually curve. So I'm taking a new approach. Doing 1x4 around all the edges. Rather than trying to cut the edges in doing it like this (picture) for clean corners. On the front that shows 4.25 inches of trim and the fluted casing I am looking at is 3 9/16" so it will hide the seam. Then the rosette corner block and base block and it will have a nice raised column style look to it.. The sides will
Stay plain without the fluted trim.

Really not sure what I want to do with the top edge. Some window casing was the closest to the idea I have. Not really sure about crown moulding around the top.

The 1x4's are just clamped/sitting in place for the pic with the stand laying on its side. I still have to cut the door(s) out.

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Can I just glue the trim on! I know. The answer is no. Who has a brad nailer I can borrow?

Also, Rich, could you post some pics of what you did to spice up your stand. I'd love to see how you did the trim on yours

 

[jdavid]

Of course Tom thinks I am building him a house.

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[rdnelson]

Here you go.

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I am going on a cruise.....on my lawnmower around my yard.

 

[porpoiseaquatics]

Use chair rail for the top edge trim. That's what I used on my 93cube tank stand. Looks awesome if you get the right profile.

 

[jdavid]

Thanks Rich that is very similar to what I have planned. Did you have to nail it on?

Ok Jeff thanks ill look into tht as well

Edit: Thanks Rich that is very similar to what I have planned. Did you have to nail it on?

Ok Jeff thanks ill look into tht as well

 

[rdnelson]

Yes but I am fortunate to have a pneumatic brad nailer.

 

[jdavid]

Yes I have to get somebody close to bring theirs over or start asking neighbors

Where did you place the brad(s) on the rosette/corner blocks? Where on the fluted casing? Did you have to fill/putty? It looks very nice I want to go about it exactly like you did. The trim will be the key to the clean look of my stand hiding all of the screws left showing