Who has given up Aquavitro Salinity? WHY?

How much are you mixing at a time. I've had cloudy and not cloudy water. IME If I just dumped all the salt I was mixing up into the water at one time all my equiment and the inside of the brute would be white or sometimes even grayish. After reading I think on the seachem site it said to remedy this add the salt slowely. I go kinda extreme with it and add it over the course of an evening and let it sit through the night and use it the next evening. I also add air with the attachment that comes with an MJ. I have zero film now.
 
I add salt 1/2 cup at a time sprinkle it over the surface of the mixing barrel and repeat without stopping until I have mixed 30 - 50 gallons at a time. never any film greyish residue at bottom of barrel which I wipe out with cloth no biggy in that regard actually I have had residue with other salts too
 
mysterybox;636116 wrote: My rodi is in my garage, so I usually keep my heater on...this time I thought it was warm enough, so I let it mix at 66-68 degrees.

I'll put my heater back on from now on, however....

My description was very accurate, my tank was more "hazy" in appearance then cloudy. Salinity was mixed to 35 or 1.026 using a calibrated refractor using pinpoint solution. It was mixed 48 hours in advance.


oops.....I meant to say

My original description was NOT very accurate, ..........
 
No cloudiness here, 24 hours to mix and its crystal clear but i do get the residue on the bottom of the container after a couple weeks of mixing which i think its the norm

Def had the low mg as well in a barrel but i think that was from not mixing the salt

So far going forward as long as i can purchase at a decent price, i doubt ill change
 
gmpolan;636688 wrote: No cloudiness here, 24 hours to mix and its crystal clear but i do get the residue on the bottom of the container after a couple weeks of mixing which i think its the norm

Def had the low mg as well in a barrel but i think that was from not mixing the salt

So far going forward as long as i can purchase at a decent price, i doubt ill change

what temp was your water?
 
the heater in the barrel is set to 80 but i def dont have a temp to confirm that actual tempature of the water
 
gmpolan;636918 wrote: the heater in the barrel is set to 80 but i def dont have a temp to confirm that actual tempature of the water




thanks! That seems to be the difference! I've made my adjustment!
 
I have mixed salinity at 68 degrees and had same results as 80 degrees, there is initial cloudiness in mix tank for an hour or 2 but disappears once salt is dissolved into solution. I will also add since I have completed 2 water changes with my second bucket I am seeing corals that had or were dying out rebounding so I am beginning to believe I had a bad batch with my first bucket and I also am not noticing the odor I had in my first bucket.
 
Well, 4 days after my 30 gallon water change, numbers look great (still supplimenting with brs 2 part)....corals look great, too!

Calcium at 450
Alk at 8.5
Mag at 1450 (I added too much brs mag)
 
I still have to heavily dose alk to get it up to 8.5 to 9, did a check yesterday 2 days after change and found alk was 2.5, mag 1375 calcium 450 but for some reason have terrible issues with alk with salinity salt.
 
Throwing in my experiences;

- There is definitely an odd odor to the salt, but you get used to it
- I get the film in my Brute but do not have the patience to mix it over a period of hours. I just clean out the container occasionally.
- My water is cloudy during the first ~12 hours, but I add the salt in quickly (as stated above), after 24 hours it is perfectly clear. I have also kept the mixture for ~4 days before using and it never clouded again.
- I mix my water in an unheated area so I heat the water that is being mixed up to standard temp. I use a EcoPlus pump to circulate. Don't recall the gph, but got it from Tim when Keen was moving. It has a couple of pieces of LocLine on the output to better direct/disperse the flow.
- Generally I would say that I like Salinity. Params seem pretty good and had no issues using it.
 
OK, at 80 degrees water was crystal clear after 24 hours.....

maybe magnesium and sumthin'? .....that's causing it to stay cloudy under lower temps......
 
Alright, we are finally going to chime in on this thread and we apologize for taking so long. :)

First and foremost, if anyone ever has trouble with any of our products, please don't hesitate to call or email us regarding the issue. We take these things very seriously and sometimes do not come across these posts for a while, which makes it hard to address the issues at hand. We want our customers to be 100% satisfied and will do everything in our power to make that happen. This is not only our job, but also our passion.

As for the Salinity, it is a little disconcerting that so many of you are having difficulty with the salt. This is the highest quality salt on the market right now and we go to great lengths to achieve that.

The Salinity is not an out sourced salt like other salts on the market, including our Reef and Marine Salts. We batch Salinity right here in our facility in GA in very small batches. This allows for us to have much greater quality control over the salt itself. The elements used in this salt are anhydrous materials, meaning they do not contain unneeded water molecules that can cause variance in the weight of the compound. This is what accounts for its high concentration and the burn that some of you may have experienced as the materials can produce quite a bit of heat when they react with water. Once we have tested the salt in our labs and it meets our standards, we then send it to an EPA registered lab where it gets tested with high quality laboratory grade testing equipment. Those results are printed on a label for each batch and sent back to our facility. Not only do we include the exact numbers that you will find in each bucket, we have also include average numbers from different oceans around the world, in addition to a maximum and a minimum that surround those ocean values. The numbers in each bucket will never fall outside of that min/max range. Furthermore, those numbers are guaranteed at a SALINITY of 35ppt or SG of 1.026, which is determined with a laboratory-grade digital refractometer.

When mixing this salt, we have found that 24 hours or less is ideal. The longer you let the salt mix, the more C02 it will take on and the more precipitation you will encounter. C02 --> water --> carbonic acid --> bicarbonates/carbonates. Mixing the salt for more than 24 hours can cause a decrease in alkalinity and pH, resulting in a precipitation of calcium and carbonates. When we mix it here at Seachem, we mix it in 50 gallon drums with one powerhead at room temperature (22-25 degrees Centigrade). There is no need to use a heater. Typically the water is clear within a few hours but sometimes we have to use it within an hour of mixing, when it is still cloudy. This cloudiness clears rapidly once introduced to the tank, generally within 30 minutes, and will not cause any harm to the inhabitants. Furthermore, cloudiness seems to persist more with buckets that have calcium and alkalinity levels on the higher end of the range. This is really inevitable when you have such high levels of those particular components.

The odor that may be experienced is quite normal. Again, because of the anhydrous materials used in Salinity, it can take on a little moisture from the atmosphere, causing an unpleasant odor not evident in other salts that use hydrous components. Not only that, but we also match the sulfate content of natural sea water, which means we add more sulfates than other salts, giving it an unusual odor.

The residue that is left in the container is a direct result of 1. the highly concentrated materials used in the salt, 2. letting it mix too long 3. a natural occurrence when mixing a high quality salt. We do an acid wash on our buckets about once a month. This can be done at home simply using Acid Buffer and water. Your bucket will be clean instantly and easily.

Those of you that have mentioned losing colonies in your reef tank, I'm terribly sorry to hear that. It is hard to say exactly what may have gone wrong in that instance. Unfortunately, those things can happen for unknown reasons when dealing with a reef tank. I hope that this information has been helpful to you all and please, don't ever hesitate to give us a call when something is wrong. Even when you are getting low numbers on salt, whichever salt of ours that may be, call us and tell us about it and we will look into it. We want you to be successful in the hobby and would never produce a product that would intentionally harm your animals.

Sorry for such a long, elaborate post, but I wanted to be as thorough as possible and hopefully answer all of your questions. Please let us know if you have any additional questions or concerns. Thanks!
 
I appreciate the response.. I would also like to point out that when I changed from Salinity, I changed BACK to your REEF SALT.. so, please dont look at me as a "lost customer"..


The only times that I ever used a heater when mixing the salt were instances where my RO water was around 50*F . (my RODI storage container are in an unconditioned space)


I still love your products, I just prefer ReefSalt to Salinity..
 
You are very welcome!

Thank you for all of your support and I'm glad to know that you are still using Seachem salt! :yay:
 
If I could ask a question regarding your mixing instructions (two posts above)...

We have been told forever that it's important to "age" new SW for at least 8 hours, preferably more, before use. I have been told that the water is "caustic" until it has some age.

Is this true at all? And if it is, what makes Salinity safe after a much shorter time?

FWIW, I'm a Salinity user (I used to use your Reef Salt, but now I buy Salinity for the exact same money per gallon made at 35ppt, so I switched a bit ago).
 
No problem! :)

Here is a quick definition of caustic:

caus·tic (kôstk)
adj.
1. Capable of burning, corroding, dissolving, or eating away by chemical action.
2. Corrosive and bitingly trenchant; cutting. See Synonyms at sarcastic.
3. Causing a burning or stinging sensation, as from intense emotion.
n.
1. A caustic material or substance.
2. A hydroxide of a light metal.
3. The enveloping surface formed by light rays reflecting or refracting from a curved surface, especially one with spherical aberration.


In my mind, a caustic solution is something like a Kalkwasser that has an extremely high pH (>12). If a salt causes a solution to become caustic, I'm not sure I would be using it in my aquarium. When mixed, Salinity will have a pH from 8.1-8.6, which is far from caustic. You can certainly let Salinity "age", however, it is not necessary.

I hope this helps!
 
Thanks. So why have we always been given the constant warnings to let it mix for a minumum time (not necessarily from Seachem)? I understand it needs to be thoroughly mixed, but that can be achieved in well under 8 hours.
 
I always thought the "Aging" process was merely to make sure that the water had properly mixed and been aerated.
 
cr500_af;640219 wrote: Thanks. So why have we always been given the constant warnings to let it mix for a minumum time (not necessarily from Seachem)? I understand it needs to be thoroughly mixed, but that can be achieved in well under 8 hours.

That was probably done to make sure the salt had completely dissolved. Doesn't make a difference with the brand of salt mix; any undissolved particles that get pumped into the tank and land on living corals can hurt them.
 
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